How to adapt the Port Elizabeth pattern: Advanced

Once you feel confident, or have had a go at the basic and intermediate styles, you could move onto these designs.

This pattern adaptation for a gathered neckline uses the 'slash and spread' method. Evenly mark vertical lines through the pattern, 'slash' down the lines and (keeping the bottom edges together) evenly 'spread' the pieces. Stick your new pattern down onto a backing paper. You will need to smooth the neck and hemlines (in green). You could reverse this method and make a flared hem/ trapeze/ swing top instead.

If you want to add buttons at the shoulders, you will need to add a facing to get the best finish. You will need to add a button stand (1/2 inch either side of the shoulder line) first. Then use the front and back patterns to draft a facing pattern onto, as diagram. This is really easy to construct: Stitch up the sides of the top and the sides of the facing; pin the front facing to the front top and the back facing to the back top (right sides together); stitch all the way around the armholes, shoulders and necklines; clip corners and curved seams; turn inside-out and press; edge stitch if necessary. Consider whether to put the buttons on the back or front, mark on, make buttonholes and attach buttons.

How to adapt the Port Elizabeth pattern: Basic to Intermediate

I have finally got around to drawing some ideas out for adapting the very simple Port Elizabeth sewing pattern, available on BurdaStyle. I hope the diagrams are helpful; please contact me if you would like any help or want to know how to adapt the pattern another way.

☞ Please remember this pattern has no seam allowance. You must adapt your pattern and then add seam allowance afterwards on every edge a seam will be ie side seams, shoulders, armholes, neckline, hemline and centre front if you have a seam here.

One of the simplest ways of personalising this pattern is to alter the neck or hemline. You can change the neckline to a scoop, V or square shape; you could add a V-shape or shirt style hem. You could shape the neckline and finish the edge with visible bias binding or draft a facing (I can add a diagram if you are interested).

A simple addition is a Patch pocket or an Apron style pocket, as below. Use the front pattern piece to draw a pocket pattern, as the diagram.

When you start to feel confident about pattern adaptation, you could start to cut the pattern into more panels and add a yoke. You will need to cut the bottom half of the bodice off and extend the bottom section as much as you would like it gathered into the top section. It is important to remember that 'what goes up, must come down' ie side seams and shoulder seams etc must be equal. On the diagram a=b and c=d.

Something simple to achieve that changes the look entirely, is to add a button stand. The centre front (or centre back) line becomes the central position for your buttons and buttonholes. Therefore, you need to add 1/2 inch either side of this (your button stand). You must then add a 1 inch facing and then add your seam allowance on every edge. This is simple to make: once cut, press along the seam allowance and facing lines and neatly tuck under. Stitch just under 1 inch from the edge on the right side to secure the layers together. Mark on buttonhole placement and add buttonholes and then buttons. Finish neckline with bias-binding.

Custom Dress

I am so excited to be making a custom dress for a lovely lady in the States. Here are the first set of pattern drafting pics. I really want to get cracking on this quickly. I'm looking for a lightweight wool or wool-type synthetic mix (suiting material), so if anyone can recommend something, please let me know.

This is the dress I am basing it on- beautiful draping with a retro feel. I have marked on bust, waist and hip lines to give me an idea of where to split the basic block I have drafted for her.

This is the bodice section- I will cut this in fabric today and see how it works, as paper doesn't give a true representation of the drapes.

This is the mid-section. I have included photos of how to 'slash and spread', for those of you interested in pattern adaptation. I have marked on where I want the extra fabric (across the whole panel) and the spread it evenly, sticking it down onto a paper backing (see next photo).

This is how it is looking currently. It will look much better in fabric. I think the mid-section may need raising a little and the bodice section shortening, to reflect the design better.

Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated!

Sewing Class

I ran my first 'sewing class' for my friend Helena (Dulcea). Helena is going off to an amazing fashion design job in the States and wanted to brush up her pattern-drafting and sewing skills. She made a beautiful chambray skirt inspired by my original. This was a dummy run- I hope to run more formal classes in the future. Thanks H!

Initial research for vintage range

Boleros

Blouses

Rompers/ Playsuits

Cap sleeve/ boat neck dresses

Sleeveless

First tunic PDF Patterns on Etsy at last!

Etsy Shop

Pattern Packs on their way!

First three tunic prototypes....

First two tunic pattern packs, named after places visited on my honeymoon in South Africa: Camp's Bay and Betty's Bay.